I am not a small man, I am 6ft 1 inch tall and weight around 215lbs. I am not a young man (relatively speaking), I will be 39 this year and I look every single one of those years of age, plus a couple more on a bad day. I am not a pretty man, I am bald, have a crooked nose and a ginger beard of varying proportions. These are facts. Skinny, or even slim cut jeans are better worn by slimmer, better looking men than myself, people who know and care about things like fashion and trends, perhaps, men with an interest in artisan coffee and folk music who read books about interior design and walk their pug to the vegan bakery maybe? So why do I find myself wearing a pair of Iron Heart’s slimmest ever cut of jeans, the 555, and loving them?
Recently I sold my Trophy Clothing Blackie jeans, they were great jeans but the cut just did not work for me as they were a little wide for my frame, this also coincided with receiving (by accident) a pair of extremely slim jeans from Sauce Zhan along with my custom cut jeans. I tried these slim jeans on as an experiment and much to my surprise I liked them. I am of the sincere belief that a pair of black denim is a wardrobe essential to balance out the blue, not every day is for indigo, so it seemed logical for me to replace the Blackie’s with a pair of slim black jeans from my go to label Iron Heart. I also take a view of if you’re going to do something then it should be done properly, hence the arrival of the seemingly un-heralded IH555-BLK, an Iron Heart jean which seems to have slipped under the radar of many if Google image search anything to go by.
The 555 is an even more slimmed down version of the 666 Devils cut. Like the 666 it offers a comfortable top block but it also has a much narrower fit throughout the entire leg, the cut was developed with an Indonesian retailer primarily for the Asian market, but larger sizes fit larger men, including me. The denim is Iron Hearts signature 21oz, exactly the same as used in the flagship model 634S jeans, but is dyed black rather than blue, it is dyed in exactly the same way so fading on the 555-BLK’s should be very possible and the 21oz denim is one of the best denims available for comfort and conforming to the wearers body shape, which is a definite bonus in a narrow cut.
The first thing to note about the 555 cut is that, despite being the slimmest of the Iron Heart cuts, it is certainly not a skin tight, jegging style cut, I would describe it as a slim(mer) tapered cut. The top block of the jeans fits like a standard pair of jeans, the thigh fits in a similar manner to the 66 cut, whilst from the knee down the taper becomes more dramatic resulting in a shape which is in reality far more subtle than the measurement table would suggest, they certainly won’t endanger your chances starting a family or make walking awkward, although crouching can become slightly painful. I guess that the only word of caution here is that it is definitely worth checking the measurement table to ensure that you will have enough room through the thigh, knee and hem. The second thing to note is that the denim doesn’t look particularly black on the internet, without the benefit of comparison it can look more like a grey cast blue. I can tell you that it is most definitely black but with a very definite white weft, meaning that it should fade really nicely. In terms of colour they remind me very much of an old pair of Samurai S5000BK which I owned many years ago.
The real mystery for me concerning these jeans is that they seem to be quite unpopular in the great scheme of cuts and denims from Iron Heart, despite being very reminiscent of the Iron Heart x Self Edge collaboration black jeans, the 7301, which was really popular at the time of release. Indeed the mystery is deepened when you realise that, unlike the 7301, the 555-BLK has a selvedge out seam. I am unsure if the lack of popularity is due to being the fourth of four different denims used on this cut, or if the timing of the release was just a bit off maybe, but I certainly believe that these jeans deserve a little more attention than they have gotten so far. I love that the 555 is a slim cut which is accessible to bigger guys rather than just waifs, and I find this particularly handy as some wider cut jeans in sizes 36 and upwards just look sloppy no matter how you cuff or hem them, whereas the 555 looks sleek and sharp. I would certainly advocate that if you are a larger guy who wants a more flattering shape to his denim then you should perhaps take a look at the 555’s, just be sure to check the measurement table first.